After
a day for final preparations we locked out of Port Dinorwic early Sunday
morning, passed through the Swellies and motored up the Straits with the
wind NNW1. The wind picked
up to 2/3 around Puffin Sound and a good beat followed with full sail,
leebowing the tide up the Irish Sea.
One slab and some rolls were put in the jib by late evening and
we passed 2 miles south of Chicken Rock just before midnight.
The wind was down to 3 again by morning and later fell even
further, requiring intermittent use of the engine under a blue sky and
blazing sun up the west coast of the Isle of Man and past the Mull of
Galloway. That evening the
sun dipped into the sea while the full moon rose, casting long
shimmering tracks on the water. The
Mull of Kintyre light was left 2 miles to starboard at 0025, with
Rathlin flashing brightly to port – amazing how narrow “the gap”
is in good visibility. Another
cloudless and rather windless dawn brought stunning views of Islay and
Jura sitting like ships on a molten sea.
We spent a few hours drifting while waiting for the tide and then
beat through the Sound of Islay with an increasing wind to finally
anchor in the upper part of West Loch Tarbert on Jura by mid afternoon.
57 hours for 216 miles.
Days
of sun and blue skies followed one after another. The next took us to the east of Colonsay, through the Torran
Rocks (with a quick visit to the Tinker’s Hole for the crew members
who hadn’t been before) and the Sound of Iona and so, under spinnaker,
to Cragaig Bay, a stunning old favourite nestled below cliffs and behind
an outer ring of rocky defences on the south side of Ulva.
The next lunch was spent anchored off Lunga in the Treshnish
Islands (another interesting although on this occasion rather populace
location with tripper boats disgorging crowds to view the birdlife)
before more following winds round the north of Mull and into Loch
Drumbuie at the entrance to Loch Sunart.
The end of the first week saw us in Ardentrive Bay having a five
star breakfast ashore with friendly natives in Oban before moving on to
Dunstaffnage for a crew change, a Baby Blake rebuild and the arrival of
Sally and the two children.
Another
perfect week saw gentle trips to upper Loch Aline, with picnics on the
castle lawns, and then Loch Drumbuie for two nights with barbeques
ashore and drams and lemonade aboard Starletta, a beautiful wooden sloop
once owned by the proprietor of the Mishnish Hotel and of which I have a
childhood photograph taken in 1967.
Leaving here we were confronted by the sight of majestic square
riggers passing Tobermory as part of “the Tall Ships”, while we
headed down the Sound of Mull, fortunately passing a racing mark just
before hundreds of boats racing in West Highland week began converging
on it. Subsequent evenings
were spent in Loch Spelve (foul with fish farms) and Puilladobhrain, as
beautiful as ever. The last
day we returned to Dunstaffnage under a blazing sun, the children
thrilled by numerous porpoises leaping from the calm sea all around the
boat.
The
final week was homeward bound with a crew of four adults and no
children. The kite was
flown down the west of Kerrera and through the Sound of Insh, before
hardening up through the Sound of Luing and Dorus Mor to anchor in
Gallanach Bay, L Crinan. The next day it was blowing up a little more to NE4/5 and one
crew member, the friendly native from Oban, had to be in a position to
get home by the evening. Port
Ellen (Islay) and Gigha were the main options but ferry timetables
decreed the latter, an uncomfortable choice given the wind.
Nevertheless mission was accomplished at the cost of only wet
trousers and shoes. A
bouncy afternoon was spent on a mooring in Ardminish Bay going half way
up the mast to retrieve lazyjacks which had come unravelled (an old
climbing harness was not voted a success as a bosun’s chair!) and
getting some rest and an early evening meal cooked.
The mooring was slipped late evening and we bucked a weak foul
tide to arrive off the Mull of Kintyre at slack water at 0330.
Coming out of the lee of the Mull the wind was a good 5 + over
the quarter and the speed didn’t drop much below 7kts even with two
slabs and many rolls in the jib - not bad for a heavy displacement
cruising boat with a waterline length only a fraction over 21 feet.
A fast reach followed down past the Maidens with one breaking
crest setting off an autoinflate lifejacket (thought that was only
supposed to happen in the southern ocean!) and causing the navigator
some facial injuries on the GPS (fortunately it continued to work).
Moored Bangor Marina mid morning, a safe haven but sad to be back
in civilisation again!
The
next two nights were spent in the Ardglass and Carlingford marinas and
the former of these in particular was pleasant as marinas go, apparently
run as a community cooperative and relying very much on unpaid help to
run the show. The
intervening passages were blessed with mainly gentle following winds
where the spinnaker again proved its worth and allowed us to see off one
or two much larger boats (one of the crew normally races dinghies!)
We finally left Carlingford after lunch with the tide and under
full sail. Initially we
faced light headwinds, but the first low of the 3 weeks was forecast and
duly arrived in the evening. A
wild night followed with heavy rain and winds up to SW5.
The Skerries light was seen occasionally but blotted out for
hours at a time. Progressive
reefs were taken in to prevent a predawn arrival on the N Anglesey
shore, but the speed just would not drop below 6kts!
Land (the Middle Mouse) was finally sighted through the murk and
driving clagg at 0715 and we were safely anchored in Porth Wen half an
hour later. A day of rest
and recuperation followed, exploring the brickwork ruins and awaiting
Woodbird’s arrival from the Isle of Man (we’d been trying to meet up
with her all week but had consistently managed to remain a day’s sail
apart).
Mike
and Sue arrived late afternoon and a convivial evening was spent on
Woodbird. The night was certainly uncomfortable, as indicated in
“Eclipsed in Howth” (from a previous newsletter). Dawn
on Saturday saw more spinnakering round Pt Lynas and down to Dulas Bay
when big black clouds suggested a drop.
Then hard on the wind up the Straits with a SW4/5, through the
Swellies and moored back in Port Dinorwic at 1300.
740 miles in total. Can
we be as lucky with the weather this year?