Minella
had already been to St Kilda with two of her three previous owners and,
with the rest of the family in Australia with friends for a few weeks,
it seemed that a further visit was timely.
A Friday in mid July thus found three of us (all MCA members)
assembling after work for a supermarket provisioning dash and then on to
Port Dinorwic, where everything was finally stowed on board by the small
hours of Saturday morning.
Saturday
morning we headed east through the Swellies and just as a score or more
of boats were tacking up and down off Menai Bridge, awaiting the start
of the Round the Island Race. Through Puffin Sound and then away to the north, hastened by
a brisk SW 4/5. Although
initially grey and drizzly it cleared later in the afternoon with
Minella pushing on at 5–6 knots throughout much of the day and
subsequent night, passing SW of the Chicken Rock in the evening and up
the west side of the Isle of Man overnight.
Dawn saw us becalmed on a glassy sea somewhere east of Belfast
Lough. From then on it was
mainly the valiant 10HP Saab which carried us up past the Mull of
Kintyre and so to an evening anchorage just past the Ardmore Islands in
a bay near the mouth of the Sound of Islay, where an adverse tide called
a halt. After a very early
start the next day (taking the last three hours of N going tide through
the Sound in the dark), we were carrying the spinnaker up the east side
of Colonsay by 0700, heading for the Ross of Mull.
Strengthening winds, rain and deteriorating visibility saw the
spinnaker down and a fast beam reach through the Torran Rocks and west
of Iona. Chased north by a
good southerly 5 and continuous rain we left the Treshnish Islands to
port and carried on round the north of Mull to finally anchor in Aros
Bay, Tobermory in the evening – still raining!
On
Tuesday we had perfect passage making conditions with a beam reach out
past the N of Coll and over the Minch to N Bay, Barra.
Wind S4+, rain showers plus sun, white horses and glistening
spray. Wednesday morning we
passed through the Sound of Barra and
thence to the NW with St Kilda in our sights.
A rather overcast passage for most of the day, alleviated by a 20
mile pull with the spinnaker. In the early evening the cloud rose to
1000 feet and the Islands were clearly visible from 19 miles.
From then on the approach was stunning, with a bank of horizontal
black cloud overhead, the sun setting pink behind Hirta, Boreray on the
starboard bow and the moon rising on the port bow.
The anchor went down in Village Bay a few minutes after midnight.
The following day we donned our St Kilda specially laundered
“foot and mouth” clothing (as specified in our permits) and tramped
the village street in gentle rain, while one of the crew braved Glen Bay
and the skuas to the north.
Bad
weather forecast 48 hours hence dictated an overnight passage (mainly
under engine) back to the Sound of Harris - which we passed through
early morning on the Friday. Anchor
was finally dropped in N Harbour, Scalpay at lunchtime, the weather
foggy but clearing during the afternoon.
The following day we took the last of the north going tide
through the Sound of Shiant and then on to Loch Mariveg, helped by a
brisk following wind – which reached a good 6 just as we slipped into
the lee of the off lying islands at the entrance.
Anchoring in the innermost corner of this amazing series of bays
and channels an elderly lone fisherman in a small open boat was soon
alongside, throwing a couple of lobsters and a 2 foot Ling into the
cockpit. He refused payment
but then suggested ”a wee dram”, so stood in the dripping rain
downing a glass of Laphroig and hanging onto our guardrail with his
other hand!
Following
days took us across to Gairloch (a
good F6 close reach initially, with the third slab necessary) and then,
in decreasing winds, to Plockton, Loch Hourn and Loch Scavaig. The last of these was as impressive as ever, but with limited
views due to low cloud and rain (which didn’t stop one of the crew
making a complete loch side circuit of
Coruisk, though various rushing torrents).
After a night in Loch Drumbuie we had a spectacular sunlit
spinnaker run down the Sound of Mull in company with around 75 other
boats on the last day of West Highland week.
One of the crew changed in Dunstaffnage marina the next morning
(Saturday) and after some provisioning in the Oban Tesco we carried on
to Puilladobhrain for the night. We
passed through the Sound of Luing with the tide early the next morning,
followed by a good sail down the Sound of Jura.
Eventually becalmed off the Mull of Kintyre it was once again up
to the engine to get us down to Bangor by the small hours of the
following morning.
A day
and a half followed in Strangford Lough (our first visit), with nights
at anchor in Quoile and Audrey’s Roads, as well as a lunch time visit
to Ballydorn (the converted light ship HQ of the Down YC). Interesting
but disconcerting navigation with low land and many poorly marked
pladdies to avoid. Thursday of the third week found us flying the kite for over
8 hours before a NW3/4 all the way back to Holyhead, where a mooring was
picked up just after midnight. A
good passage but marred at the end by lack of concentration regarding
tidal details as we dropped the spinnaker in the pitch dark, too near to
the Skerries for comfort. A
further 16 miles under spinnaker and over a sparkling sea on the Friday
took us from Harry Furlong to Trwm Ddu.
After that it was hard on the wind down the Straits,
through the Swellies bang on slack water and moored back in Port
Dinorwic by early Friday afternoon.
991
miles in 21 days, 105 under spinnaker, 260 or so under power.
A good trip!